Bangkok is a megalopolis with around 7 million people, but apart from the traffic, it is not nearly as daunting as others (such as Mexico City) because for the most part there are clusters of skyscapers popping up from large expanses of area. But development continues out from the center, seemingly forever.

We took a a couple of different boats (one a scary fast longtail boat and the other a relaxing ferry) to get to the historical district downtown. This was in the thick of summer and Bangkok's weather was typical - brief rain in the morning, and balmy sun for the rest of the day with big fluffy clouds providing a little shade and a spot shower or two. Allison found the heat stifling. I got a hat to cover my freshly shaved head and was comfortable (if profusely sweaty, but that doesn't bother me most of the time). We visited the ornate Grand Palace complex, the giant reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, and the urban crunch of MBK.

A note on green papaya salad (som tam). It sounds delicious, and it can be. But there are whole dried chilis in there. I don't know if you are supposed to eat these, and if so, how, but I (who likes spicy food mind you) tried valiantly to eat this but made myself pretty sick and couldn't even eat whatever noodles I had ordered besides. So I say if you order this, pick those peppers out before you start eating.